My conversations with the I-Kiribati
The i-Kiribati or Gilbertese are, on the whole, quiet and extremely polite. Gathering any information from people, whether about how the quality of the groundwater or the approximate time of a flight, requires very careful wording and a lot of patience. Each of our reef sampling trips began with a one or two hour Abbott and Costello routine about the time of the tides and the location of the selected reef.-
What time is the flight?
- 8:30
I was told it was in the afternoon.
- No, it is 9:30
Is this the new schedule? (pointing to a posting on the wall)
- Yes
It says 10:30
- Yes, the flight is at 10:30
-
After the second failed attempt to meet with someone at the environment department because of the cryptic message left at the government-run hotel ("The 2 pm meeting with environment was not confirmed"), where the phones do not work.
Is he available?
- Too busy. Come back tomorrow?
I, uh, am going to Majuro. Can we make an appointment for sometime next week?
- Ok, next week. Bye
Er, wait, anytime next week?
- Yes. Tell me when.
How about you tell me when he is available?
- Only on Wednesday morning
Let's try 9 am
- Ok. Thanks.
Should I give you my name?
- Oh, Ok.
I was handed a desk calendar, and asked to write my name on the first available page, in other words, that day. After some negotiation, we agreed to write the appointment on the page marked Wednesday. To my utter shock, it actually worked.
-
May I use the internet?
- Yes
(Minutes later)
I can't get it to work
- There's no internet today
And the twin (paraphrased):
Where do I catch the bus?
- Right outside
(Minutes later)
I haven't seen any buses
- No buses today.